Achieving beautifully defined, soft curls without the accompanying frizz can often feel like a challenge. The secret lies not just in the products you use, but in the entire process from washing to drying. By adopting a few key techniques and understanding what your curls need, you can create a smooth, polished, and long-lasting style. This guide will walk you through the steps to tame frizz and let your natural curls shine in all their glory.
Understanding the Cause of Frizz
Before diving into styling, it's helpful to know why frizz happens. Frizz is primarily caused by a lack of moisture in the hair shaft. When hair is dry, its outer layer, the cuticle, lifts to absorb moisture from the air. This causes the hair strand to swell and appear puffy or frizzy. Curly hair is naturally more prone to dryness because the oils from the scalp have a harder time travelling down the twists and turns of the hair shaft. Factors like humidity, friction from towels or pillows, and harsh cleansing agents can exacerbate the problem.
The Foundation: Washing and Conditioning
Your journey to frizz-free curls begins in the shower. The right washing and conditioning routine sets the stage for successful styling.
Gentle Cleansing
Avoid shampoos with harsh sulphates, which can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz. Opt for sulphate-free cleansers or consider co-washing, which means washing your hair only with conditioner. This method is particularly beneficial for very dry or coarse curl types. When you do shampoo, focus the product on your scalp and let the suds run down the lengths of your hair as you rinse.
Maximise Hydration
Conditioner is a curly-haired person's best friend. Be generous with it. Apply conditioner from the mid-lengths to the ends and use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to gently detangle your hair while the conditioner is in. This is the safest time to detangle, as the 'slip' from the conditioner minimises breakage. Never try to detangle curly hair when it's dry. For an extra boost of moisture, leave the conditioner on for a few minutes before rinsing with lukewarm or cool water, which helps to seal the hair cuticle.
Styling Techniques for Perfect Definition
How and when you apply your styling products is crucial for defining curls and preventing frizz. The golden rule is to apply products to very wet hair.
Apply to Soaking Wet Hair
Do not towel-dry your hair before styling. After rinsing out your conditioner, your hair should be dripping wet. This allows the styling products to trap the water in your hair, ensuring maximum hydration and helping your curls clump together naturally. You can section your hair to ensure every strand is evenly coated with product.
Layering Your Products
A common and effective method is to layer products. Start with a hydrating leave-in conditioner to provide a base layer of moisture. Follow this with a curl cream to encourage curl clumps and add softness. Finally, apply a gel to provide hold and create a 'cast' around the curls. This cast is a slightly crunchy coating that locks in the curl pattern and protects it from frizz as it dries. Don't worry, this crunch is temporary.
Application Methods
There are several popular techniques for applying products. The 'praying hands' method involves smoothing the product down the hair shaft between flattened palms. 'Raking' involves using your fingers like a rake to distribute the product. 'Scrunching' is an upward squeezing motion that helps to encourage the curl pattern. Experiment to see which combination works best for your hair type.
Drying Your Curls Without Frizz
The drying phase is where many inadvertently create frizz. Air-drying or using a diffuser correctly are the best options.
Plopping for Definition
Instead of rubbing your hair with a traditional terrycloth towel, which causes friction and frizz, try 'plopping'. Lay a microfibre towel or a cotton t-shirt on a flat surface, flip your hair forward onto it, then wrap the fabric around your head. This technique absorbs excess water without disrupting your curl pattern and can even enhance definition. Plop for 10-20 minutes before air-drying or diffusing.
Diffusing for Volume and Speed
A diffuser is a blow-dryer attachment that disperses airflow to gently dry curls. Use your dryer on a low speed and low-to-medium heat setting. You can either bring the diffuser up to your roots and hold it there, or 'cup' sections of your curls in the diffuser bowl and lift them towards your scalp. Try to move the dryer as little as possible and avoid touching your hair with your hands while drying to minimise frizz.
Finishing and Maintaining Your Style
Once your hair is 100% dry, you can complete your style. If you used a gel, you might notice a crunchy cast. To get rid of this, simply 'scrunch out the crunch'. Gently scrunch your curls with your hands until the cast is gone, revealing soft, defined curls underneath. You can also use a few drops of a lightweight hair oil on your palms to add shine and further soften the hair. To protect your curls overnight, sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase or wear your hair in a loose 'pineapple' (a high ponytail on top of your head) secured with a gentle tie.
