The 1980s were a decade of bold expression, and nowhere was this more evident than in its hairstyles. The mantra was simple: bigger is better. For those with long hair, this era offered a playground of dramatic volume, cascading curls, and gravity-defying height. While the most extreme looks might feel like a costume today, the core techniques for creating texture and lift are timeless. This guide will explore how to capture the spirit of 80s glamour at home, focusing on creating a voluminous, textured style that is both stunning and achievable without causing unnecessary damage to your hair.
The Foundation of 80s Volume: Preparation is Everything
Achieving that iconic 80s silhouette isn't about simply piling on products; it starts with a solid foundation built on clean, well-prepped hair. The goal is to create the perfect canvas that can hold volume and texture for hours. Skipping this stage is a common reason why styles fall flat. True 80s volume is built from the root outwards, ensuring that the entire length of the hair contributes to the final, impressive shape.
Begin with a thorough wash using a lightweight, volumising shampoo and conditioner. Heavy, moisturising formulas can weigh long hair down, making it harder to achieve lift. After gently towel-drying your hair to remove excess water, it's time to introduce your primary volumising agent. A generous amount of volumising mousse is essential. Work it through your hair from roots to ends, ensuring even distribution. This product provides 'grip' and memory, helping to support the structure you're about to build.
The blow-drying technique is equally crucial. For maximum root lift, flip your head upside down and dry your hair, directing the airflow at the roots. Use your fingers to lift sections as you go, encouraging them to dry in an upward direction. When your hair is about 80% dry, you can flip back over and use a large round brush to smooth the ends and add shape, but always continue to lift the roots as you dry. Make sure your hair is 100% dry before moving on to heat styling; styling damp hair can cause significant damage and will not hold the style effectively.
Step-by-Step Guide to Iconic 80s Texture and Height
With your hair prepped and full of potential volume, you can now move on to creating the signature curls and height. This multi-step process involves layering texture and strategically building volume.
1. Creating Curls and Waves
The 80s look was defined by texture, from tight perms to looser, wilder curls. You can recreate this effect at home using a few different tools. Before applying any heat, always spray your hair with a heat protectant. For classic, bouncy curls, hot rollers are an excellent choice. Section your hair and roll medium-sized sections away from your face. The larger the roller, the looser the curl. Let them cool completely before removing them. For a more defined or varied texture, use curling tongs. Alternate the direction of the curls on different sections to create a less uniform, more naturally voluminous look. After curling, gently separate the curls with your fingers rather than a brush to maintain definition while boosting volume.
2. The Art of Safe Backcombing (Teasing)
Backcombing, or teasing, is the secret to the gravity-defying height at the crown. However, it must be done correctly to avoid creating knots and causing breakage. Work with small, manageable sections of hair, about one to two inches wide. Hold a section of hair straight up from your scalp. Place a fine-tooth comb about two or three inches down from the roots. Gently push the comb down towards the scalp in two or three short, soft strokes. This creates a 'cushion' of tangled hair at the base, which provides lift. It's crucial not to be aggressive or to 'saw' the comb back and forth. Focus the teasing on the root area of the under-layers of your hair, particularly at the crown and sides, leaving the top layer smooth.
3. Shaping and Setting the Style
Once you've built your foundation of curls and teased roots, it's time to shape the final look. Gently use your fingers or a soft-bristle brush to smooth the very top layer of hair over the backcombed sections. This hides the teased 'cushion' and gives a more polished finish, blending the volume into the rest of your hair. Arrange the curls and shape the overall silhouette. To lock everything in place, use a firm-hold hairspray. Hold the can about 12 inches (30 cm) away from your head and mist it evenly over your hair. For extra lift, you can spray directly at the roots while holding sections up. Let the spray dry completely before touching your hair to avoid a sticky or stiff feeling.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Creating such a dramatic style can come with pitfalls. Being aware of them can save you from frustration and potential hair damage.
- Aggressive Backcombing: Forcefully teasing hair from ends to roots will create unbreakable knots and lead to severe breakage. Always be gentle and work in small sections near the scalp.
- Skipping Heat Protection: The combination of blow-drying and curling tongs puts hair under stress. A heat protectant is non-negotiable as it creates a barrier that minimises damage.
- Hairspray Overload: Applying hairspray too closely or using too much will result in a stiff, unnatural 'helmet head' effect. The key is a fine, even mist from a distance.
- Ignoring the Foundation: If you start with flat, unprepared hair, your style will collapse quickly. Mousse and proper blow-drying techniques are essential for longevity.
- Difficulty Brushing Out: A well-teased style can be challenging to detangle. Never try to brush it out dry. Instead, saturate your hair with a detangling spray or conditioner in the shower and use a wide-tooth comb, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots gently.
Modernising the 80s Look
While a full-on 80s recreation is fun, you can also incorporate elements of the style for a more contemporary feel. Instead of combining everything, focus on one key feature. For instance, create volume at the crown with gentle teasing but keep the rest of your hair in softer, more modern waves. Alternatively, go for big, brushed-out curls but skip the extreme height at the roots. The essence of the style is confidence and drama, and you can adapt its core principles to fit your personal taste, proving that the spirit of 80s hair is truly timeless.
